New Hampshire: Return to the Lakes

After a week out west in Colorado, I return home to a busy but beautiful month of foliage viewing here in New England. This year, my parents (Jordan’s 阿公and 阿媽) are visiting from California, so in addition to spending time together in Brookline, I bring the entire family on a pair of extended weekend trips to New Hampshire and Western Mass. Over the Indigenous Peoples’ holiday weekend, we take a ride up to New Hampshire’s, to the region surrounding Lake Sunapee. Since Lindsey and I took a mid-week jaunt to the Lakes Region last year, I’ve wanted to return and explore a different part of the state. After moving Jordan’s car seat to their rental car and packing the trunk, the whole family jumps in for the two-hour ride on Saturday afternoon (the traffic out of the city is bad, but not nearly as bad as 2022’s Friday night rush hour apocalypse). Jordan alternately naps, snacks on cranberries and “pizza” (Jane’s latest invention: a white-bread sandwich with egg, ketchup, and cheese), and has Jane and my mom sing him nursery rhymes and songs on the ride up north. The ride is mostly uneventful, and the traffic fades away after we turn off I-93N just before Concord.

We check into our lodging, a rented cabin along the shore of Chalk Pond, a small freshwater pond in the hamlet of Newbury, just a few miles from Lake Sunapee. After exploring the waterfront and saying ‘hello’ to the mechanical owl on the nearby dock, Jordan settles in and begins playing in the downstairs basement, which features kids’ toys, figurines, and a cute little karaoke set. My mom and I head out to do groceries at the Hannaford’s in the town of New London, a few miles up the road; on the menu for tonight is a quickly salt-cured and butter-grileld flank steak served with ponzu-scallion chimichurri; a rustic ratatouille of cubed autumn vegetables; a pot of ditalini pasta with ham and corn (for Jordan), and fresh bread. After dinner, we relax in the living room, and Jordan gets to partake in a nice Yeh family vacation tradition: access to television! After setting some boundaries, we let the kiddo watch some of his favorite Youtube videos (wildlife documentaries, helicopers, and firetrucks) as he munches on sliced pear. At night, after everyone has gone to sleep, I set up my tripod from the comfort of the house and shoot some long-exposure scenes of the brightly lit cabin across the pond. The view from our house, framed by beautiful, flame-red sugar maples, will be a frequent subject over the next few days.

In the morning, the weather is misty and drizzly. Ater a lazy breakfast and a little more shooting out the back porch (from both upstairs in the living, and downstairs in the basement, which offer different perspectives on the lake with slightly different frames of foliage), Jane, Jordan, and I head out to circumnavigate Lake Sunapee and take a first pass at exploring the area while my parents relax. We stop first on the south shore of the lake, where despite the moody weather, Jordan is in excellent spirits and unusually cooperative with my efforts to grab a family photo. Sunapee (Algonquian, Soo-Nipi: "Wild Goose Waters"), though not nearly as large as last year’s Lake Winnipesaukee, is still quite impressive, and similar to New England’s other large lakes, it is a massive freshwater remnant of the last glacial retreat ten thousand years ago. Just a few feet down the road, we stop again to let Jordan toddle around the Bell Cove Caboose, which usually houses a one-room historic museum in its interior (not open this Sunday morning, though Jordan obviously does not mind). After he has his fun running up and down the nearby wheelchair ramp multiple times, we continue northward to Sunapee Harbor.

Parking by the waterfront, we take a look around the area; Jane and Jordan climb into a nearby ski lift car (for fun), while I admire the foliage. We wind up taking a brief walk along the Sugar River, which forms the outlet for the main lake and eventually flows westward into the Connecticut River. By the river, there are beautiful maple trees with deep red and orange hues; I photograph the trees, their reflections, their leaves fallen in the water, and some poorly tolerated attempts at family portraits on the nearby covered bridge. We make a mental note to bring Grandma and Grandpa back here later in the day.

After stopping in a nearby bakery/deli and purchasing a handful of treats for home (some maple donuts and whoopie pie), we finish our trip around the north side of the lake, returning back to Chalk Pond in time for Jordan (who is gradually melting down) to eat a quick lunch of leftover pasta and go down for his mid-day nap. Jane and I follow suit after a lunch of open-face sliced turkey sandwiches with crushed walnuts and cranberry jam.

In the afternoon, after the entire family is awake (and after some obligatory photos from the back porch, where Chalk Pond is now beautifully calm and reflective), we pile back into the car, this time with the grandparents, to re-visit Sunapee Harbor. Along the way, we stop near Herrick Cove to admire the scenery and photograph the nearby lighthouse. I take some cute photos of Jordan with his grandparents on the nearby dock, Jordan nonchalantly ripping off his jacket hoodie (the child is less impervious to unwanted clothing than he is to the cold, apparently). At Sunapee Harbor, my parents walk around the Sugar River bridge and admire the foliage, and we take a tripod portrait of all five of us together, beneath the covered bridge with the river and foliage as a backdrop.

By this point, the sky is growing dark, and the weather no less rainy and threatening, so we complete the loop (going the opposite direction as we did in the morning). Along the way, we decide spontaneously to stop off at Bubba’s Bar and Grille, in Newbury at the south end of the lake. Jordan being a toddler now, it’s nice that we can be spontaneous and go to restaurants together as a family — although he must travel, of course, with his little lunchbox that includes bibs, towels, baby utensils, and a healthy helping of pre-washed berries and snacks. The food tonight is decidedly average; I have a fried seafood platter and my mom has a hot lobster roll that are roughly as advertised; Jane has a bizarrely vinegarey risotto; and my dad has a fairly undercooked bison burger. Jordan, with his kid’s menu order of Kraft Mac and Cheese, makes out the happiest, scarfing down his meal along with some donated lobster from his grandma. After filling up the car at the nearby gas station, we make the short drive a few minutes back to Chalk Pond Road and settle in for the night.

New Hampshire: Around Sunapee

On Monday, our last full day in the Sunapee region, we again awaken to foggy, rainy conditions on Chalk Pond. After breakfast at home, we again climb into the car for a bit more exploring, heading north again along NH-103A. This time, we park in the large park-and-ride lot near the town of New London, and cross the street into the short forest trail that climbs up to Clark’s Lookout. The walk is chilly but pleasant, with the birch and oak forest providing a good bit of shelter from the faint rain. At the top, we see a foggy but beautiful overlook of Lake Sunapee’s northern reaches, framed by colorful oak canopies and blueberry bushes in the undergrowth. We take some family portraits here: Jane and me with Jordan, and again all five of us with a tripod shot. Jordan, for his part, happily cooperates as long as I keep him entertained by dancing and making a fool of myself for a few seconds as the camera timer counts down toward the shot.

Back at the car, we continue east onto Newport Road and soon turn off onto Little Sunapee Lake Road, to go poking around the smaller lake that is Sunapee’s more intimate, quiet cousin. At the boat launch on the lake’s western end, I photograph a beautiful maple tree, along with distant shots of mist rising from the lake and partially obscuring the colorful foliage of the opposite shore. Then, we continue our drive, winding up at Spring Ledge Farm just outside of New London. Jordan has become an old hand at these New England farmstands: he happily goes bouncing between the piles of pumpkins displayed outside of the farm store, and I take a photo of him and Jane standing beside a derelict tractor (“trac-tah!”) just outside of the farm’s sorghum maze. After exploring the premises and documenting some of the beautiful foliage in the nearby woods, we buy Jordan a little baby pumpkin. The folks minding the farmstand are incredibly gracious when we ask whether they still have any cider donuts on sale (for the grandparents have never had these before, and I was hoping to have them try); they wind up digging into the back storeroom and giving us a box of day-old donuts (leftover from the weekend rush) free of charge! A glowing example of small-town New England kindness, and one of the reasons I love traveling in this region so much.

Back at home, after a sampling of the donuts and another lunch of leftovers, it’s naptime again (for, basically, the entire family, as we are all running on the toddler’s one-nap schedule).

Post-nap, we awaken feeling refreshed. After some family photos on the back porch with Chalk Pond’s foliage in the background, we again set off around the shores of Lake Sunapee, this time winding our way south, poking into some lakeside drives, and detouring over to Lake Sunapee State Beach, which is deserted for the season. Here, Jordan instantly runs off to go check out the nearby playground (unfortunately, the slide is wet), while I pace along the water’s edge, photographing the distant boathouses. Near the parking lot, one of the most colorful, ruby-red maples I have seen all week (which is saying a lot) is putting on a show; I take some time carefully composing both horizontal and vertical shots featuring this tree’s beautiful foliage.

To close out the evening, we drive back up to Sunapee Harbor, spending some time exploring the harbor area that my parents missed in yesterday’s rain. Out on the dock, we take some family photos (Jordan gradually less and less cooperative, as he just wants to explore and see the boats). Jordan and the rest of the family wind up watching a local dude take his boat out of the water with his pickup truck, while I head into Harborside Trading to peruse the gifts and pick up our trip magnet. With the sun beginning to set, we do a loop along Lake Avenue to see more of Sunapee’s waterfront houses, before ultimately taking the scenic route home, northward along Jobs Creek Road. After another fantastic home-cooked meal (baked salmon in ponzu, and grilled boneless shortrib marinated in garlic soy), we head home to Boston the following morning; my parents buy a cake to celebrate Jane’s birthday before they head home to Plymouth.

Maine: Old Orchard Beach & Cape Elizabeth

To kick off Jordan’s first week of summer “vacation” (really, does a one-year-old need vacations from daycare? And who’s taking the vacation, anyways?), we take a Father’s Day weekend trip up to the coast of Maine. We’ve booked a motel room just a block off the ocean at Old Orchard Beach, and this long weekend will mark Jordan’s first time playing on a sandy beach, his first time at an amusement park, and his first Ferris wheel ride, among other wonderful summertime memories.

After a placid two-hour drive up the coast, we check into the Seabreeze Motel and offload our stuff (our life belongings) into the room. After Jane sets up his travel crib, Jordan has a happiness explosion in bed, jumping and laughing and dancing all over his mattress. The little man is developing a liking for new places and adventures, and I’m all for it. After Facetiming his grandparents, driving a few minutes up the road to buy dinner/groceries, and having a snack, we head out to explore the nearby amusement park and arcade. Jordan falls in love with a plush panda pillow at the candy shop next door, which promptly becomes our first trip souvenir. At the arcade, Jordan’s little toddler brain (which we’ve assiduously protected from screen time, minus some nature videos and My Neighbor Totoro) nearly melts from all of the flashing lights, sounds, gadgets, and screens. We sit for awhile in the fairground, Jordan watching all manner of amusement park rides that fling, whizz, and spin. After a brief walk to the beach, we head back to the motel; I drop half of my fruit smoothie on my foot on the way back down the street. After Jordan bathes and goes to sleep, I head back out alone to photograph the beach and amusement park at night.

The next day (Father’s Day Sunday), we spend the early morning playing a local park, and taking Jordan to the nearby Amtrak station so that he can see his first real train. After breakfast, we take a spin on the local town trolley; Jane and Jordan get off early to return to the motel for lunch, while I stay on to go back to the grocery store for drinks. It’s a lovely, warm morning, and I take a pleasant ten-minute stroll from the store back to our motel. In the afternoon, it’s back to the beach to ride the Ferris wheel. I’m probably the most scared of heights out of the three of us, while Jordan is mainly bothered by the relentless sun and the wind; for the first time ever, he grabs his sunglasses (which we’ve been largely using as a random household toy) and demands that we put them on his face. Jordan’s favorite ride, however, is the carousel - or rather, he enjoys watching it spin without riding it. After some time playing in the surf, we buy lobster rolls for dinner and head back to the motel.

On Monday morning, we choose to head north a ways to Cape Elizabeth, to visit the famous Portland Head Light and take a walk at nearby Two Lights State Park. For lunch, we return to Old Orchard Beach and get an enormous platter of fried seafood at The Clam Bake, which Jordan enjoys with a side of applesauce and fries. In the evening, it’s one more spin around the amusement park (Jordan mainly wanting to watch the carousel from the sidelines again) and to the train station to watch the passage of one more southbound Amtrak, before we tuck in for the night.