Day 3: The Road to Peacham

After sleeping in past sunrise, we clean up the house, load up the car, and depart from Westmore in the early morning. It’s another cloud-strewn day - this time, banks of middle clouds are rolling in from the valleys to the west, making for excellent fall foliage shooting conditions. Past the village of Barton, we head west along Barton Hill Road toward Irasburg, stopping the car every few hundred yards to gawk at the colors, the landscape spangled by shadow and sunlight, and the morning mist rolling over the treetops. I take a number of favourite shots along this road: a tunnel of golden oaks lining the path, and a distant shot of a working farm, with valley fog and looming mountains beyond, to the west.

In Irasburg, Jane looks in vain for a public restroom (third-trimester bladder is no joke) while I shoot the village’s congregational church from the nearby green. We turn south now on the road to Peacham and Caledonia County, stopping at a gas station for Jane before continuing toward Craftsbury Common. Before Craftsbury, we turn off on a side road, stopping along the way to photograph distant hills and farmlands, admiring majestic maples, oaks, and elms emblazoned with color. The opportunities for creativity and composition are endless after leaving the main road; meandering along farm roads and through less-frequented hamlets, you catch a sense of the slower, more intentional life that the pastoral landscape almost seems to encourage no matter where you turn. It is this sort of beautiful autumn morning that makes the Northeast Kingdom so special - even, one gathers, for the local Vermonters.

At Craftsbury Common, we take a brief break and photograph the beautiful trees behind the village’s public library before continuing southward, past Hardwick and along a vanishingly narrow dirt road to a trailhead just past Nichols Pond. Here, we take a brief, slightly steep climb (Jane climbing carefully and steadily, at 30 weeks) through the autumn forest to Nichols Ledge, which looks out over an impressive westward vista across Nichols Pond and East Long Pond, the lakes tucked admist a sea of fall foliage at its peak. I take two timelapses here while Jane rests and munches on some snacks. It’s past noon now; a light drizzle moves in as we climb back down the mountainside and through the forest.

Back on the road, we head east toward Cabot and finally rejoin our route from last year (when we visited the Foster Covered Bridge and bought apple cider donuts at Burt’s Orchard before heading into Groton State Forest). Jane takes another bathroom break in the Cabot General Store, while I walk around the village green but find little to photograph. Further south, we pass through the town of Marshfield, turning off onto an old railroad bed-turned dirt road toward Turtlehead Pond. The western end of the pond has impressive near, medium, and far views of the foliage in the Marshfield Town Forest, tucked beneath granite cliffs; after scouting for a bit, we resolve to return early the next morning for sunrise. Back on the road, we head east to Groton State Forest, stopping first at Peacham Pond. The pond itself has fairly standard views as far as lakeside scenery goes, but we stop to photograph our trusty Corolla beneath the panoply of colorful trees that line the access road.

Heading further south, we pass through Groton State Forest and onward to our next pondside stop. After we mistakenly try the entrance to the Ricker Pond Campground, the campsite attendant directs us another mile or so south to a parking lot where we can access the old railroad bed (now walking/biking trail) at the pond’s southern end. We scout around here a bit, walking out onto a tiny peninsula that juts out into the pond (where we’ll come back tomorrow for a mini-maternity shoot of sorts), and also photographing the foliage and small falls at the pond’s nearby outlet. Back in the car, we head south to Rt 302 and turn north along Minard Hill Road, which will finally lead us to our long-awaited reunion with the village of Peacham.

We enter the Peacham-Barnet area in the mid-afternoon. A morning of enticing light and changeable weather has only looked more and more promising as the day has worn on. By the time we find our first shooting location (a cemetery near West Barnet), I could not possibly ask for better conditions for shooting autumn scenery: the clouds provide just enough coverto act as a soft lightbox for the colorful landscapes, but are moving swiftly enough to produce beautiful, active light rays that highlight different features of the land. After setting up another timelapse here, I walk along the cemetery and up and down the dirt road, shooting in just about every direction. Next, we turn the car back down the hill toward Peacham, and turn off along the hills to the north to explore a trio of shooting locations I’ve scouted around the vicinity of East Peacham. My homework has proven fruitful; from this height of land, we’re able to see down the valley and toward the rolling farmlands and hillsides that surround Peacham; to our south, I can see the white steepletop of Peacham’s iconic church. I file these locations away for sunrise on our final day, before proceeding back to the old fire station above the church, where Jane and I first stopped one year ago (nearly to the day). We walk along the nearby hill behind the fire station, stopping to photograph the church and farm from under the boughs of an apple tree.

It is nearly the golden hour now; as a touring photography group moves in to shoot the church, we leave and head across the street to Peacham’s beautiful cemetery, where we are alone until the sunset. Here, I revisit a beautiful, massive maple tree towering above the headstones - quite possibly the most beautiful maple tree I have ever photographed in my life (but not the most beautiful tree - that honor goes to the Great Beech standing above the Susquehanna River in Maryland). Behind the cemetery, the hillside opens up to an impressive southward vista, taking in hamlets and hillsides, trees coated in the honeyglow of the setting sun. I set up the day’s final timelapse here - a long one - while we sit on the grass among the gravestones, observing and photographing the changing light. Perhaps it’s the setting, but Jane and I get a little nostalgic here, talking about our childhoods, our travels, the meaning of our work, the meaning of our traveling to and being in a place as beautiful as this one, and how all of it will change (yet again, but perhaps more than ever before) in the space of the next few months. As the sun sets behind the hills in the forest to our west, we walk back through the cemetery to our car. We make the short drive north along the Peacham-Danville Road, and after a very long day of driving, exploring, and shooting, we settle in for the night in a guesthouse along Joe’s Brook, just south of Danville.

Day 4: A Northern Countryside

We wake up the next morning in our guesthouse in Danville; it’s a dark and frosty morning outside of our bedroom windows, which are built up with condensation.. Putting on our cold-weather layers, Jane and I head outside and scrape the ice off our windshield before setting off west toward Marshfield. We return along the old railroad path to the edge of Turtlehead Pond, where a group of photographers has gathered for a sunrise shoot; Jane and I join the tripod line. It’s calm and cloudless, and the mist is rising from the lake surface into the frigid air. The photographers present appear to be part of some sort of workshop group (a guide walks down the line calling out shutter speeds and settings to everyone, which I find bizarre - a creativity-free, assembly-line vision of landscape photography). My tripod neighbors on the crowded, reedy shoreline, for their part, are friendly enough; we carefully work around each other to set up our shots. I set a timelapse of the dissipating morning fog, while using my main camera to scout for other compositions. With time, the sun comes peeking over the forest to our east, casting the nearby granite cliff in sidelight and casting a perfect golden glow on the silver birch and maple trees along the nearby shore. The light, paired with the rising mist, leads to one of my favorite shots from the entire trip (the one above).

After we have our fill of Turtlehead Pond, Jane and I get back in the car and continue southeast along the railroad bed, paralleling Marshfield Brook. This dirt road enters Groton State Forest and meets up with Hwy 232 just across the entrance from Owls Head Mountain, which Jane and I drove up one year ago. This time, we turn onto the highway and return south past Ricker Pond. In the town of Groton, we continue south along Powder Springs Road. For the morning, we will be doing a brief driving loop through several small parishes in rural Orange County, photographing some of the village-and-church scenes made famous by Arnold Kaplan, a prodigious and beloved New England photographer who pioneered many of the Vermont “scenics” that are indelibly linked to the Northeast Kingdom. After a brief stop on a hillside in East Topsham (the light is harsh and morose and the foliage past peak, so nothing emerged from this stop), we proceed a few minutes south to East Corinth. We hike up the frost-covered field to the east of the village, and I turn back to take a photograph of Jane climbing above the village and steeple. Finally, we turn west and pass through Waits River, stopping to photograph another iconic steeple composition. The foliage conditions in Waits River are more favorable, but the shot, admittedly, needed heavy clone-stamping to eliminate foreground telephone poles and wires that have been installed since Kaplan’s day.

Back on Hwy 302, we return east and then north toward the rolling farmlands of Peacham. It is mid-morning now, though the mist in the valleys is just beginning to dissipate. We take a different series of farm roads to return toward our base in Danville, stopping to photograph some beautiful country lanes lined by tall oaks and golden maples. I also scout for additional views from the vicinity of East Peacham back toward the farms and hillsides to the south, finding a beautiful spot up on East Hill. Back in Danville, we make a stop at the guesthouse before heading east to St. Johnsbury for lunch. We have a relaxed afternoon, taking a nap before heading out for a late afternoon / sunset shoot on Ricker Pond. Back on the narrow peninsula at the pond’s southern end, I have Jane pose with the foliage for some maternity shots; we take some selfies in our matching flannel shirts before calling it a night and returning to Danville.

On our final morning in Vermont, we head just a few minutes south of our guesthouse, to an overlook of Peacham that we had previously scouted on Monday afternoon. This proves to be a fruitful sunrise location; I take a mix of panoramas, distant shots of the misty hillsides overlooking the village and its iconic steeple, and a timelapse of the light suffusing the landscape in a warm, golden glow. Returning home, we pack our bags and hit the highway, following the 93S through Franconia Notch, down through New Hampshire, and back into Massachusetts. We are home in Boston before noon.

Our last trip as a traveling couple; four beautiful days of autumn light in the NEK.

Music:
”Into Dust” - Mazzy Star